If there is a need to update the premises in the home, many people think about the possibility of independent conduct. In most cases, for this you need to properly treat the surface, paint them either. The editors of the site will help you navigate the difficult issues of repair. We will tell you how to properly putty the walls, share the secrets of the correct technology for applying working mixtures and provide detailed instructions that will help beginners avoid mistakes.

Puttying is generally understood as the process of processing wall surfaces with finishing materials immediately before gluing or painting. If the mortar is not applied correctly, as a result, under any decorative coating, unresolved flaws will appear - cracks, bumps and pits.

After eliminating the existing defects, a smooth and at the same time even surface of the wall or ceiling is achieved using putty. For these purposes, materials are used for starting and finishing, which are dry mixtures of coarse and fine grinding.

It is easy to check a wall by attaching a rule to it: in the presence of gaps, they are eliminated by applying a layer of putty mass. The spatula should be held at an angle of 25-30 ° with respect to the wall. If you do not know how to putty the walls under, you can choose a ready-made acrylic mixture and an average facade spatula for these purposes. To finish polishing a dried wall, abrasive paper with the marking P-150, 180 is used.

Article

When carrying out repair or construction work at their final stage, it is necessary to putty the walls. Aligning the walls with putty is necessary if you want to get even and beautiful walls for painting or wallpapering. All work is carried out in several stages, each of which even a novice can do. Of course, without practical experience in leveling the walls with putty, you can not do without flaws. But adhering to the recommendations below, you can minimize errors.

If you are going to align the walls with putty, you should decide on the type of putty in advance. The choice of this or that putty is affected by the type of materials for finishing, the initial quality of the wall surface, as well as the intended purpose of the room. Based on these parameters, and putty should be chosen.

Today on the market you can find many putties from various manufacturers. But all putties can be divided into ready-made and dry. The fundamental difference between the two is the need to prepare dry putties locally. Otherwise, they are similar. But it should be noted that for ready putties a higher quality is characteristic, since they are prepared strictly according to the technology directly at the enterprises.

When choosing a putty, it is necessary to pay special attention to its type. There is a starting (leveling), finishing and universal putty. Each of them is intended for a certain type of wall alignment work.

• So starting putties correctly used to eliminate deep bumps. This type of putty can be applied in a thick layer from 10 mm to 30 mm, while not being afraid of surface cracking.
• Unlike starting putties finishthey are applied in a thin layer up to 10 mm and have finer grain size.
• Universal putties   They have the strength of starting putties, but they are fine-grained and can be used for finishing leveling.

Having decided on the type of putty, choose its type. It can be gypsum, polymer, cement or lime putty. Each of the listed putties is applied according to the final finish coating and the intended purpose of the room. Let's consider each of them in more detail:

• Gypsum putty. It is applied under any finishing finishing materials. Virtually no seat. It can be applied with a layer of more than 2 mm. But the main drawback is the ban on the use in rooms with high humidity and sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, it is not used for external works and for decoration in the bathroom, bathroom and kitchen.
• Polymer putty. They are used for any finishing finishing materials. Not seated. Can be applied in a thin layer. It does not depend on temperature differences. The disadvantages of these putty is the very high price and high risk of buying a defective putty.
• Cement putty. These putties are suitable for any finishing finishing materials. Most often, this type of putty is used for rooms with high humidity. Unfortunately, the main disadvantages are surface cracking, low elasticity, a long hardening period and high shrinkage. As a result, repeated puttying is required.
• Lime putty. These putties in their composition have both sieved quicklime, and cement or various polymers, therefore, they have all the advantages and disadvantages of cement putties. They are most often used for the decoration of facades and walls, plastered with lime plaster. This type of putty is recommended to be used for finishing with lime paints.

Important! Lime and cement putties are the only ones that are suitable for painting with lime paint. This is due to the fact that they have an alkaline reaction, are able to provide “breathing” of the wall, especially if they are used for finishing aerated concrete vapor-permeable walls. Gypsum putties, on the contrary, have an acid reaction and can be used for finishing concrete walls, drywall, etc.

It should be noted that when leveling the walls with putty, the cost of all work largely depends on the amount of putty used and its price. To save on this point of the estimate, you must carefully read the brand of the putty you are buying and find out its consumption per 1 m2. Of course, you have to pay for quality, but if the budget is too small, you will have to find a compromise in the issue of price / quality.

Regarding the volume of spent putty, on average about 15 kg of putty is spent on a wall of 9-10 m2. The layer thickness is from 2 to 5 mm. In this case, after drying of the first layer, it may be necessary to additionally putty individual sections, and this is a couple more kilograms of putty. The application of a second layer of putty for final leveling is especially important when preparing walls for painting.

  Tools and additional materials

To perform all work on leveling the walls with putty, you will need a certain tool and additional materials. Everything you need can be freely purchased at any hardware store. From the tool you will need:

• putty knife 15 - 20 cm;
• putty knife 45 - 60 cm;
• corner spatula;
• rule
• container for kneading putty;
• drill and nozzle mixer;
• special grater with mount for sandpaper and the paper itself is fine and medium grain. You can also add petals to protect against dust.

Of the additional materials, a primer and rollers are required for its application. Also, plastic film on the floor will not be out of place to protect it from accidentally dropped putty.

Putty leveling of the walls begins with preparing the surface of the walls. There are no special secrets here. If you have to putty the walls of the brick of a newly built house, then this is best done after plastering them. For concrete walls, plastering is not so important.

  Cleaning the walls of the old coating

In a house where the walls had any kind of finish, you will first have to remove it. An example of the preparation of such walls is the following photos demonstrating the cleaning of walls from an old water emulsion and gypsum putty.

The process of cleaning the walls is quite simple. As in the case of the removal of old wallpaper, the surface of the painted water-based wall with old gypsum putty is moistened with a small amount of water, and then it is scraped off with a spatula. But unlike wallpaper removal, it is best to moisten with water a small area.

After a couple of minutes, as soon as the putty absorbs water, it can be cleaned.

In cases where the walls were painted with acrylic paint or alkyd paint, everything is somewhat more complicated. First, you have to remove the paint itself with a special wash. Of course, this is not the most pleasant way to clean, especially indoors. Therefore, the paint can simply be knocked off the wall with a hammer.

After cleaning the wall, you can proceed to the second stage of preparation - coating it with a primer. This is a mandatory step and should not be neglected. Deep penetration primers will not only increase surface adhesion, but also penetrate deep into the wall, filling cracks and partially repairing minor damage. The primer is applied quite simply. First, it is poured into a special container into which a brush or roller is dipped and then rolled on the wall. To increase the adhesion effect, the primer can be applied in two layers. After applying the primer, leave the walls to dry for 6 to 10 hours. Then you can begin to align the walls with putty.

But first you need to learn a few simple recommendations that will allow you to putty the walls efficiently and without any problems.

• Puttying walls is best done in one go. This is dictated more by necessity than by any rules. The thing is that the putty dries quickly enough, and after 20 - 30 minutes it will be impossible to apply it to the wall with high quality. Therefore, several small test batches should be done to determine how fast you produce them.
• If you had to take a long break, then before proceeding with further puttying, you should generously moisten the edge of the putty and then continue to putty.
• If you need to align the walls with the application of several layers of putty, for the first layer, you can use universal or starting putty. And already the last layer to put the finishing putty.

  Do-it-yourself leveling of the walls with putty

After preparing the walls, you can proceed directly to the alignment of the walls with putty. All work will take place according to a specific pattern. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

1. Before you start kneading putty, it is necessary check the evenness of the walls. To do this, take the rule and apply it to the wall at different angles. Vertically, horizontally and diagonally. Applying the rule in this way, you can notice all the irregularities of the wall. Where there is a gap between the rule and the wall, there you have to fill it with putty.

Important! After checking the walls for bumps and noting these places for yourself, you need to consider the following. If most of the protrusions are located vertically, then putty should be applied from bottom to top. And if it’s horizontal, then from right to left or vice versa.

2. Checking the walls for bumps, proceed to kneading putty. As already noted, the first two or three batches must be made trial, gradually increasing the amount of putty. For the convenience of a set of dry putty from a bag, you can use a special plaster bucket.

On average, for a more or less uniform solution development, a beginner will need 4 - 5 putty buckets. The amount of water for one batch must be looked at on the package. Different manufacturers may have it different.

Knead the solution with a drill and mixer. Bring the solution to the consistency of thick sour cream. So that the putty is easily removed from the spatula and at the same time does not slip off or drain from it itself. When mixing putty it is necessary to achieve a uniform solution, without lumps. If there are any, we try to break and knead them.

3. Using a narrow spatula, putty putty on a wide. We try to evenly spread the putty along the edge of the spatula. Then we put the putty knife to the wall at an angle of 50 - 60 degrees and stretch the putty on its surface. You can hold a spatula in various ways. An example of how this can be done is shown in the photo.

The main thing is that the putty knife is securely fixed in the hand, and when applying putty, a sufficient amount of effort was applied to spread the putty on the surface. We begin to putty from the corner of the room. To create smooth and accurate slopes and corners, we use a special angular spatula.

4. Having developed the first spatula, repeat the whole procedurewith a set of putty and applying it to the wall. But we do this in a new section of the wall, next to the already putty layer of putty. At the same time, we partly step on it, as if continuing the previous layer. Remember the unevenness of the wall and apply the putty accordingly.

5. Having processed the wall section with an area of \u200b\u200babout half a meter, we take the rule and apply it at an angle to the wall. Then with a little effort we spend along, removing excess putty.

6. We repeat the entire puttying algorithm until we work out the whole batch. Then repeat it.

After the walls have been puttied, leave them to dry for two days. After drying, it will be possible to more thoroughly evaluate all the flaws and flaws during the first puttying. Once again, we apply the rule to the wall and find irregularities, if any. Then you can go in two ways.

The first   - Fill the recesses with a new layer of putty. Second   - align the protrusions with a grater, and then, if necessary, apply a finishing layer of putty. Consider the second option, as it will allow the highest quality leveling of the walls with finishing putty.

1. We take a grater with pieces of sandpaper fixed on it.
2. By careful circular movements we clean off the putty surplus in those places where flows or bumps have formed.
3. At the end, we fix the emery with zero grain and go through the cleaned places again.
4. Upon completion, we check the surface of the wall and, if necessary, apply the finishing layer of putty. Before applying the topcoat, the wall must be moistened with water or a primer to soften the previous coat and increase adhesion. The top coat should be applied with extreme care so that there are as few flaws as possible.

  Aligning the walls with putty: video tutorial

Putty leveling of the walls is one of the simplest and easiest in construction. Of course, without experience it will be difficult to make perfectly straight walls the first time, but a little practice will quickly give a positive result. If you are in no way friends with the instrument or do not want to get dirty, you can find good craftsmen for quite reasonable money. Moreover, the price is not high for leveling the walls with putty in the region of 125 - 130 rubles per m2. Which in comparison with, for example, plaster is quite cheap.

Aligning the walls with ordinary sand-cement mortar, especially in the absence of skills, is problematic. It is the putty that makes the walls perfectly smooth. It is easily applied and leveled, so even a layman can work with it.

Putty   (putty) is called a paste-like mixture, with the help of which the surfaces are aligned: ceilings, walls, joints between plasterboard sheets, etc. It enters the distribution network both in the form of dry powder, which is subsequently diluted with water, and in the form of a ready-made solution.

Unlike sand-cement mortar, the putty is more viscous and has less weight, so it is much easier to level it. It hardens more slowly than ordinary cement mortar, and some types of putty after partial solidification can be re-diluted with water. Thanks to all these qualities, you can work with her even in the absence of special skills.

Perhaps the only disadvantage of the putty is less strength than that of a sand-cement mortar. To prevent it from cracking when drying, apply it with a small layer of up to 1.5 cm. The next layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. Finishing putty is more liquid and plastic, so it is applied with an even smaller layer - from 1 mm.

Types of putties (finished mixtures). Which one to choose?

The one and only "correct" putty simply does not exist. It is selected in accordance with specific operating conditions. Depending on the type of binder component, all putties are divided into:

In addition to cement, gypsum and polymers, special modifying additives are added to the putty to increase its viscosity and slow down the drying process.

By purpose, putties are divided into:

• Starting: for applying the main draft layer and leveling sufficiently large elevations; for better adhesion, dry mixes have larger grain sizes (fractions) than the finish compositions;
• Finishing: for final surface finishing and fixing the first layer; more viscous and fluid, applied only in a thin layer - with excessive thickness can form wave-like curvatures; easy to grind if necessary;
• Universal: combine the properties of starting and finishing compositions, do not require the application of a fixing finish layer.

The manufacturer always indicates the exact consumption of putty on the packaging. On average, for finishing 1 square. m layer of 1 cm will need 10-15 liters of the finished solution. If the thickness of the applied layer is greater, the flow rate increases accordingly.

When preparing walls and ceilings for wallpaper or decorative (Venetian) plaster, a mirror-flat surface is not needed - it is enough to achieve only the alignment of the surface. For these purposes, both gypsum and cement starting or universal compounds are suitable.

Pre-mixes of famous brands

With a small amount of work, it is more convenient to purchase ready-made mixtures on an acrylic or vinyl basis that do not require additional dilution. In addition, such solutions are more plastic, slower to set and are ideal for beginners. Often they are also used for finishing for painting to obtain a perfectly flat and smooth surface.

A quality mixture should have a homogeneous structure without impurities, be soft and elastic, easy to apply and not crack after solidification. The most popular mixtures include compositions of well-known brands:

• Vetonit (Finland): time-tested reputation, almost odorless, very plastic and economical; the only drawback is the high price;
• Finishing stucco mixture Rotband: made in Russia using German Knauf technology, its popularity is due to its low consumption, sufficiently high ductility and reasonable price;
• Ceresit (German Henkel concern): reasonable prices with good quality and wide assortment;
• Founded (Russia): relatively inexpensive, but very good mixes, are easy to apply and sand;
• Bergauf: another largest Russian brand, flexible and easy-to-use compositions at affordable prices.

Required Tools

The first step is to purchase at least two or three spatulas:

Painting   spatulas with a thinner and more flexible surface are recommended for work inside the house. However, experts say that for perfect surface leveling, excessive flexibility is useless. Therefore, even for decoration it is better to arm with more durable facade spatulas. They are
must be made of high quality stainless steel and not bend even with strong pressure. Pay special attention to the handle - one should lie in the hand as conveniently as possible.

If you rarely work with putty and do not have the necessary skills, it is advisable to acquire corner spatula   with a fairly rigid canvas bent at 90 °. Although, in principle, the corners can be successfully aligned with an ordinary spatula.

We may also find it useful:

What are beacons and why do we need them?

Too “curved” walls with large differences in height are more reasonable to level with plasterboard. This will not only cost much cheaper, but also save you from the rather laborious work of putty. Small areas, even with significant differences in height, can be completely leveled with plaster.

If you need to apply a very large layer, it is better to level the wall first with a sand-cement mortar, and finish the finish with putty.

It is simply unrealistic to determine wall differences “by eye”. Therefore, before proceeding with the alignment, the curvature of the walls is checked by the building level (ordinary bubble or laser).

But how to determine the thickness of the future layer? In this case, simple but very useful devices called beacons will come to the rescue. With large surface drops, metal or gypsum profiles are used as beacons. Their vertical location on the wall is regulated with the help of slaps of mortar, placed under such a profile. Naturally, this whole process is controlled by the building level. If one side of the profile is raised too much, part of the solution is removed. On the contrary, if the solution and its layer is small, it must be added.

In small areas, only slaps of the solution without the use of a profile can serve as beacons:

• They are distributed on the wall at an equal distance from each other, the thickness of their application is regulated by the building level;
• The distance between the beacons should be equal to the width of the rule: with it, the solution will “stretch” between the beacons.

Further alignment of the solution between the beacons is carried out in zigzag movements only upwards - so that the solution does not settle under its own weight. A distance equal to the width of the rule should be closed at a time.

Before applying the first draft coat, be sure to smooth the walls. The primer mix will strengthen the surface and enhance adhesion between the wall and the leveling mixture.

Putty technology with a putty knife

Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and pieces of old plaster. All cracks need to be expanded and knocked loose stucco out of them. Then dust is removed from the walls with a broom or vacuum cleaner.

Walls that do not have too large differences are leveled with a wide spatula of 400-600 mm:

When applying a large number of layers, it is better to use a paint net. This will provide a more durable surface.

Alignment of angles

If we perfectly aligned the walls, the corners will come out by themselves and no additional efforts will be required to level them. If you don’t trust your abilities too much, in the corners you can use plastic perforated corners with a reinforced mesh (they are called counter-trunks). They are installed simultaneously with the alignment of walls and ceilings - they are "put" on the putty, with a little effort they are pressed into it, checking the vertical position of the building level, and then the excess solution is removed with a spatula. However, the corners with counter-shields will be slightly rounded due to the profile features.

If you plan to sticker thick wallpapers and decide not to bother with the perfect alignment of the walls, reducing the corners is still a must. After all, even if they seem perfectly straight to you, next to furniture or household appliances, even a small flaw can catch your eye. The alignment of the corners is carried out last after finishing the walls and ceilings, but, of course, even before the finish.

Countershulps are very convenient to use for leveling jambs. Reinforced with plastic, they become more durable, and the risk of accidentally damaging them and falling out the plaster will be much less.

Finishing putty

The finish layer is used for the final leveling of the surface, fixing the first layer and protecting it from cracking. Finishing putty is applied after the starting or beacon layer. Compositions for application should have a finely dispersed structure so that after final finishing the wall looks perfectly smooth, without pores and even small roughnesses.

Work with the finish line has its own characteristics. It is more fluid, therefore it should be applied in a very thin layer up to 1 mm (some manufacturers offer a putty that is applied to the surface with a layer of 0.1 mm):

• To putty lay perfectly evenly, before applying it is better to carefully spray it with water or wipe with a sponge; such hydration can increase the setting time of the solution, and you can, without rushing, perfectly smooth the wall;
• When working with a fine-grained putty with a small coating thickness, such wetting is a prerequisite - otherwise it will quickly set, and it just will not work out properly;
• All movements with a spatula are made in a vertical direction crosswise;
• Surface treatment is performed with slight pressure and at a slight angle;
• Before each application, the spatula is wiped with a damp cloth; if you need to go over the surface again, the putty remnants are also removed from the tool blade and it is thoroughly wiped;
• Small stripes may remain at the points where the trowel corners pass it is not necessary to smooth them - after drying, they are removed with an emery cloth with a fine abrasive.

Make sure that the thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1.5 mm, otherwise it will not only be uneven, but may also crack in the future.

Grout

Our wall is almost ready. But even after the finish, the ideal is still far away. Now we will remove everything, even the most inconspicuous differences, depressions and tubercles, scratches and other flaws.

Smoothing of large irregularities is carried out before the surface completely dries up - at the moment when the solution grasps well and will not spread on the wall. This is done with an abrasive (sandpaper or abrasive mesh) grades P60.

  Only a small surface can be rubbed with sandpaper. To work with large surfaces, it is better to purchase a special grater, on which an emery cloth or abrasive mesh is fixed. Small holes of the abrasive mesh are not clogged with dust, so working with it is much more convenient. To remove bumps in the corners, special abrasive bars with sharp corners are used.

If you want to get the most glossy effect and a smooth, almost mirror-like surface, you will need another grout with the smallest P120 grain, which is made 3-4 hours after the first. Grouting of a wall that is already completely dry is done after abundant wetting of the surface with water.

Decorative putty

The simplest way to obtain a relief surface is to roll on fresh putty with a special roller having a relief surface. The pressure should be uniform, without tearing the tool from the wall.

A very peculiar texture is obtained using a spatula with serrated edges. When holding a tool on wet plaster at different angles, you can get both symmetrical (waves, scales) patterns and a chaotic relief. You can imitate the Venetian plaster with a regular sponge or brush, which are pressed into the dry mortar at different angles.

Thus, filling the walls with your own hands is quite time-consuming and time-consuming, but not so difficult. You can learn more about the technique of filling walls using the following training video:

Probably, each of you at least once in your life faced with repairs in your apartment or house. And more than once I heard about the putty of the walls. Recently, often people have hired special workers to handle

How to hold a spatula correctly

with this work, but nothing can guarantee you that it will be done perfectly, and more than that - why not spend a small amount of money, if you can learn and putty walls yourself can be simple and ordinary for you, and the result can be just wonderful . See how it is done. First of all, you do not need to clog your head with such a thing as finishing putty. The thing is that, by its nature, this material is itself a finish. Putty can be divided into two groups: prepared putty and dry putty. This material is made on the basis of drying oil, and the types of putty are not so much different from each other. This material can be oil-cool, latex and others.

  How to choose a spatula

As a rule, putty is used to align walls and surfaces with painted enamel or oil paint. In general, putty can be applied with a minimal layer, which cannot be said about dry mixes, where their layer starts from one millimeter. After drying, the putty leaves a very beautiful and smooth surface.
  today is very large. But it is worth highlighting two important arguments by which to choose this product that meets the requirements of your premises - KR or ordinary putty and VH, that is, putty for rooms with high humidity. It is worth paying attention to the putty of the VETONIT brand, since it really meets all the highest qualities that good putty should contain. This manufacturer is most often chosen by builders and the material has been tested for years.

Moreover, the manufacturer of this brand of putty has other advantages that convince that this putty deserves your attention:

1. This material is very easy to process.

2. If you did not use this product at a time, then it can be used the next day, which many other putty brands cannot allow. In order to preserve it, you only need to pour water into the container with putty and drain it the next day, before you start working with it.

3. This material gives a little shrinkage, which is a big plus.

4. A very simple method of preparation: pour about a quarter of the water into a specific container, pour the contents of the bag into the water and stir with a construction mixer until a homogeneous mass is formed. After three or five minutes, stir the mixture again.

It is worth recalling that you should not make too thin a putty solution, since it can constantly fall off.

The product should be applied with a special spatula, and treated with ordinary sandpaper.

Now let's talk about - for what purpose they putty the walls and how to putty the walls correctly?

Puttying the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands

  Finger Spatula Hold Method

The main task when filling the wall for wallpapering is to make the work so that then there are no difficulties during wallpapering. Work must be done with putty or dry mixes. First you need to sand and prime the wall, see for these purposes. Then apply the mixture evenly and approximately two millimeters in a layer. The mixture is applied with a spatula. The whole action goes like this:

1. You need to take a small spatula (about sixty centimeters, but not more than eighty) and apply a small amount of putty (about ten or fifteen centimeters).

2. Now lay out the entire mixture on the wall and, holding the instrument about twenty to thirty degrees, in relation to yourself, align the mixture on the wall. It will be ideal if you make all your movements diagonally, thereby aligning the putty, both horizontally and vertically.

3. An important point is that to begin this work should be from the left edge of the wall. And the next layer must be led in the direction of the done, so to speak, then impose a new layer as if overlapping.
  But do not think that after the first layer of putty, your wall will immediately be smooth and perfect. The thing is that you can not avoid the strips from the spatula. It will not be possible to do it yourself even by the most real professionals in this matter.

Video on the putty of walls under the wallpaper

In order to putty, you can use a corner spatula. Such a spatula will make your angle perfectly even very quickly and effortlessly. The angle will be exactly 90 degrees. To do this, putty should be put on the edges of the walls at the very beginning, and then gently spread with a corner spatula.
It is very important to remember that the thickness of the first layer should not exceed five millimeters, otherwise you risk not getting the best option - the putty may not dry out or crack. It is important that after applying the layer he was able to dry for twelve hours, but no less. After the putty dries, sand the wall with sandpaper from P80 to P120. In order to avoid the formation of pits and depressions, you should use a special holder. After you have sanded the wall, you need to primer it again and apply the next layer of putty. But in this case, you do not need to build up the layer, you just need to bring the previous layer to perfect condition. After this layer has dried, prime the wall and your surface is ready for

  Cleaning the walls with a grater

Here the work will be more accurate and reverent. After all, the most important task when puttingtying walls for painting is that it is necessary to create a perfectly smooth and beautiful surface, without any flaws. Application is an important step.If you have made any errors, you can use a water-based paint - it can hide some defects. But if you have chosen enamel for yourself, then you should try to create the perfect surface. This means only one thing - before painting, you should carefully approach the preparation of the wall, that is, carefully and well putty the wall. And if there is a need, then apply a large number of layers, the main thing here is not to be lazy and not think that the paint can hide the defects, because this may not happen and as a result all the flaws will come out.

The technique of applying putty is almost the same as that. The only thing that needs to be changed is the maximum length of the spatula - it should not be more than sixty centimeters. As for sandpaper, in this case you should take no more than P120, and it is best to choose P150. Sanding will need to be under the lamp, that is, bring the bulb directly to the wall itself while sanding. An article on how to help you in this matter. Thus, you can see all the defects and not make unnecessary movements. Puttying the walls with your own hands is a simple matter, but it requires patience and dexterity.

If you need to partially restore some surface, then you should work only with the area where you want to do it. If the paint is swollen, then, using a spatula, push the crack apart, primer and putty. But a very important point - the cracks should first be sanded and glued with a sickle. All this is necessary so that this problem does not appear again after some time. See the video below for an example of how to putty the ceiling for painting, but for walls this method is quite suitable. To find out the amount of putty that you need will help.

Putty on the ceiling for painting video

In order to make an even angle using putty, it is necessary to take a plaster or paint corner profile, which is usually glued before applying the first layer with the plaster itself. But this method may not be the best for further painting. In order to solve this problem, you can use another option - just leave more plaster at the corners, and after drying, this material should be thoroughly treated with sandpaper.

In principle, this is all that

Anyone who has ever encountered one knows perfectly well what “ideal” walls are in our homes. These are continuous fossae, tubercles and fissures. If the defects are very large, then you can do without or not, and you can use a special putty to fix minor surface flaws. In today's article, we will consider what kind of composition it is, its types, in which cases it is used and how to putty walls and ceilings correctly.

• correction of defects after applying the initial layer of the starting putty;
• sealing cracks and small depressions;
• finishing structures of complex shape;
• sealing of joints (GCR).

• The spatula has a trapezoidal shape and, as a rule, has a wooden handle.
• It features a small thickness of the working plate, has an elastic and flexible stainless steel blade.

A spatula is used to perform interior decoration as an auxiliary tool.

• trapezoidal shape of the working surface;
• the blade is not flexible, as it is made of carbon steel;
• the width of the working surface is 300-600 mm.

The tool is used to putty the outer and inner corners.It is a metal plate bent at right angles and equipped with a handle.

Which putty for walls is best used when leveling surfaces

In addition to the fact that the putty is starting, finishing and universal, it still varies in composition. So, putty mixtures are:

• acrylic -they are used for interior decoration. This type of putty is highly moisture resistant and versatile, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
• water dispersion -possesses high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
• oil-glue mixture.The putty composition is based on drying oil and is ideal for creating a finish layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
• cement puttygreat for working with, stone and surfaces in rooms with high;
• gypsum mixtureused for work in rooms with low humidity .

Why putty is needed - different for each layer

To apply any putty with several thin or one thick layer is inefficient, since the material is expensive, and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and smooth the surface, they use, after puttying, a start (1-3 mm) and finish (up to 0.5 mm) layer is applied. To create a better and more durable finish, you must use materials from the same manufacturer.

Puttying the surface using beacons

The better the base, the less finishing putty will take and, accordingly, the repair will be cheaper. To obtain an ideal surface, special perforated profiles are used - “beacons”, which allow you to quickly and efficiently align the walls, which is perfect for beginners.

The metal profile is installed on a sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or a building level and achieving an ideal vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100-150 mm less than the length of the building rule used. After installing the beacons, it is necessary to allow the solution to dry so that they do not go astray during subsequent finishing with putty.

Prepare putty (described above) and fill it with the gap between the beacons, and the maximum layer thickness does not matter. Based on the profiles, stretch from the bottom up, cutting off the excess solution and, if necessary, filling cavities with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, it sometimes takes more than a week to dry the putty.

How to apply putty on the wall for the finish layer

After the walls are prepared appropriately, you can proceed to finish the surface with finishing putty. To do this, use compositions, dry or finished, which after processing acquire a smooth and perfectly smooth surface. Finishing putty is applied with a thin layer, and the smoother the base, the lower the flow rate of the solution. The technology of puttying and sanding practically does not differ from working with starting mixtures.

We bring to your attention a video on how to apply finishing putty on a wall:

Drying, sanding and sanding of plastered walls

The final stage of finishing work with putty requires a serious attitude and consists of several stages. One of them is polishing, which is often overlooked by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the putty top coat, you need to let it dry well, because it is after this that the smallest defects become noticeable, namely cracks that must be repaired when they occur.

Advice!To identify defects during puttying, it is necessary to use lighting devices with a powerful bright lamp and directed at a small angle to the wall being treated.

After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small tubercles and sag, and also make the wall perfectly smooth. If you plan to glue the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, and in case of painting, additional grinding will be necessary. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use emery paper of a fine (almost zero) fraction or an abrasive mesh.

You need to start grinding from any upper angle and, making circular movements, process the wall, highlighting a powerful bright. It is undesirable to exert strong pressure on the grater so as not to damage the finish layer.

Comment

Team leader of the repair and construction company "Premium House"

Ask a Question

“Since sanding and grinding are very dirty and dusty stages of finishing work, it is worth using a respirator, safety glasses and gloves, and the room should be well ventilated. In addition, these protective measures are required by the safety instructions. ”

How to make your own putty of walls under the wallpaper

The technology of puttying walls under practically does not differ from the finishing of surfaces under:

1. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
2. The work is carried out by two spatulas - one with a width of 150 mm and the second with at least 300 mm.
3. One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of the order of 50 mm, etc.
4. After the wall is completely plastered, they allow it to dry, and only then do they begin to level the wall by sanding.
5. To clean the surface of dust, apply putty again, and then everything is repeated first until a perfectly flat surface is reached.

When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and pasted over. The application of a primer prevents the formation of fungus, mold and dampness, and also improves adhesion between various finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty the walls under the wallpaper:

Puttying the walls for DIY painting

Photo	Process description
	First of all, with a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging.
	As a rule, check the evenness of the wall.
	We pay special attention to corners.
	If there are bumps, remove them using a punch with a chisel.
	We prime the wall with a roller or spray gun.
	We apply a cement-sand mortar in the corners along the entire vertical.
	As a rule, we contract the solution.
	We get such an almost perfect and even angle.