Ceramic tile is a popular finishing material that has excellent performance and attractive appearance. Many owners prefer just such a lining, finishing the bathroom. Today we’ll talk about how to properly lay ceramic tiles on the floor in such rooms.

Features

For finishing the bathroom and the bathroom, the ideal materials are different types of tile coverings. With their help, the premises are given a well-groomed and aesthetic appearance. In addition, such coatings are not afraid of moisture, and not every finishing material boasts such a feature.

Ceramic tile today is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular finishing materials.Its demand is due to high rates of wear resistance and durability. It should be noted that the installation of such material can be done with your own hands. Of course, for this you need to have at hand detailed instructions and adhere to all stages of work. If you did everything right, the result will not make you disappointed.

Finishing the bathroom with ceramic tiles is the perfect solution if you are looking for environmentally friendly and safe material that does not cause allergic reactions. Such cladding will not harm the health of residents even at high temperatures that persist in the room for a long time.

Ceramic floor tiles are also chosen because of its unpretentiousness.Such material does not require complicated maintenance. Any dirt from its surface is removed quickly and seamlessly.

Another feature of this material is that before laying it is necessary to carefully prepare the base. Some home masters neglect this rule, which negatively affects the quality of the finish. Do not install ceramic tiles on an unprepared base.

There are several options for laying ceramic floor tiles.With each of them, a certain pattern emerges on the floor, for example, a notebook cell or a chessboard. Similar layouts look very interesting and neat. Unusual installation methods are most often addressed by users who want to refresh the bathroom with interesting design solutions.

A distinctive feature of ceramic cladding is its high strength. Such tiles easily withstand impressive loads. It is not so easy to damage or crack it. For this reason, people often choose ceramic tiles for flooring in the bathroom.

As many people know, almost all types of tiles are rather slippery, which negatively affects their safety. Ceramic materials can be purchased with special non-slip surfaces - such specimens are most suitable for bathrooms, since they are more difficult to slip on.

Types and methods

Tiles can be laid on the floor in the bathroom in different ways, each of which has its own characteristics. Let us consider in more detail how it is possible to lay out such a floor cladding.

Parallel

Many owners choose tile laying in a parallel way. The material laid out in this way is very similar to a notebook sheet in a cage. This similarity is especially noticeable if a contrasting shade was used to finish the seams.

Experts recommend referring to this method of laying if you have acquired a rectangular or square type of tile. Installation of such materials will not be difficult, even if you have not encountered such work before.

"Herringbone"

This is another interesting way to lay ceramic tiles on the bathroom floor. The material is laid, like a parquet board. It is recommended to use the herringbone lining if you decide to place the floor in the room with rectangular tiles. But it is worth considering that carrying out such work requires the attention and accuracy of the master. In addition, it is very important that all calculations and measurements are carried out correctly.

Staggered

No less popular is this method of laying ceramic tiles. In this case, you should act as if you are laying the wall in a half brick. The result is a very interesting and stylish composition. However, it must be borne in mind that it is more difficult to lay out the floor tiles in this way. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to turn to experienced craftsmen to finish the floor in the bathroom.

As a rule, rectangular tiles are used for this kind of decoration.  By technology, it must be very carefully laid out in a checkerboard pattern, which is not easy for all owners. However, the result usually causes delight and admiration of the household.

Diagonally

The floor is also attractive in the bathroom, tiled diagonally. Usually, square materials are used for this. Since the coating is laid diagonally (from one corner to the opposite), the squares look like rhombuses. It should be taken into account that with this method of laying, the tile consumption increases, since due to trimming and fitting during the course of work, about 30% of tile remains unsuitable for installation are lost.

This kind of flooring in the bathroom looks stylish and elegant.That is why today many owners prefer this method of decoration.

Mosaic method

If you want to transform the bathroom, giving it an original look, then you should turn to the mosaic method of laying ceramic tiles. Fortunately, modern manufacturers produce entire collections of materials from which you can create spectacular patterns and drawings. Of course, this finish is more expensive than other options, but also looks appropriate.

It is recommended to turn to such cladding if your bathroom has an area of \u200b\u200bat least 20 square meters. m. This requirement must be taken into account, since in a too small room it is unlikely to be able to lay out a beautiful pattern, and it will not be so good to see it.

If you decide to lay the floor in the bathroom with your own hands in a mosaic way, then you should stock up on patience and free time - such work is quite time-consuming. In addition, mosaic tiles are not cheap, so most owners turn to the services of experienced masters in flooring.

Modular

This type of cladding is carried out using tiles having different sizes and shapes (square and rectangular). To put these materials, you must carefully approach the selection of the drawing and correctly draw up a reliable diagram, indicating the dimensions of the individual parts, as well as marking the seams.

This method of laying tiles is very attractive and bright, but also more time-consuming. To cope with such work, you need to have certain knowledge and experience.

With shift

With this laying pattern, each individual tile moves both vertically and horizontally at the same time. Appearing gaps overlap with tiles having a more modest size. The result is a very neat and beautiful floor finish. However, in carrying out such work, it is important to pay due attention to the precise fit of all parts.

Materials and Tools

It is necessary to start prepared laying of floor ceramic tiles.

It is imperative to stock up on such tools:

• construction mixer;
• rubber spatula;
• spatula with cloves;
• glass cutter;
• masking tape;
• building level;
• rubber mallet;

• special adhesive composition for tiles;
• grouting;
• primer;
• plastic crosses;
• clean mixing container;
• water
• rags.

And you also need to purchase the right materials.

• its thickness should be from 9 to 12 mm;
• it is necessary to choose a tile of 2 classes (or higher) of stability;
• materials must be resistant and abrasion;
• must have a moisture protection category of AA;
• the tile must be resistant to aggressive chemicals.

It should be noted that large tiles, especially those that have a dark shade, visually reduce the space. For this reason, it is recommended to give preference to medium-sized materials having a shade suitable for the shade of wall coverings.

If you have purchased all the necessary components, then you can proceed directly to the installation of tiles on the floor in the bathroom.

Preparatory work

As mentioned earlier, it is very important to prepare the floor in a quality manner for tiling.

To this end, the following steps should be taken.

• First you need to remove the old flooring, screed and waterproofing layer. It is advisable to clean the floor to the very bottom.
• It is necessary to level the foundation, based on level indicators. It is necessary to carefully fill the chips and cracks with cement.
• After this, a fresh layer of waterproofing should be formed using mastic or special material in rolls based on bitumen / rubber.
• The next step is to fill the screed. It should be noted that the largest thickness of the leveling formation should be 1.5 cm.
• It is necessary to wait until the screed is completely dry. After that, remove dust and dirt from the floor.
• Now we need to apply a primer to the base, using the mowls. Do this by rubbing the primer into the base. When white foam begins to form on the floor, the primer can be considered complete - the concrete has absorbed everything necessary.

As a rule, the primer dries for several hours. It is better to carry out such work in the evening, so that in the morning to begin laying tiles on a ceramic basis.

How to make markup?

The installation of ceramic tiles not floor is recommended to start with the layout. Thanks to this step, the exact amount of material required can be calculated. Please note that it is important to buy a tile with a small margin - 15% for complicated bathrooms and 10% for ordinary rectangular areas.

You need to find out the width and length of the bathroom.The resulting figure must be divided by the size of the tile and added to the total number of widths of the joints between the individual elements. As a result, you will find out the number of whole tiles in all rows. The remainder should be divided by 2. The resulting result will indicate the number of incomplete tiles that should be along the perimeter of the base. Such marking will make it possible to draw even edges from cropped elements.

Next, you need to find the center of the bathroom. To do this, connect the opposite angles with the help of lines. The arrangement of rows of finishing materials must be made, starting from these lines. Before laying ceramic tiles, it is important to make sure that all calculations and measurements were made accurately.

At the end of the layout, you should get an even square / rectangle with the sides laid out in whole tiles - these elements will need to be fixed first.

The subtleties of the process

If all of the above steps are completed, then you can begin to lay the tiles on the floor.

Let us consider in more detail the sequence and order of performance of these works.

• First you need to carefully prepare the tile adhesive. As a rule, it consists of a dry mixture, which just needs to be prepared for direct work. To do this, the contents of the package are poured into a clean container with water, and mixing is started after 10 minutes.
• After that, the floor in the bathroom is primed with the resulting tile adhesive - it is laid in a thin layer. This is necessary to provide a more reliable grip between the base and floor tiles.
• Next, glue is applied to the floor surface using a notched trowel. At the same time, it is important to make all movements in one direction, so that the layer turns out to be even.
• Now you can put the starting row of tiles. Before that, a thin adhesive layer should also be applied to it. Details must be firmly glued to the floor so that no air bubbles remain - such trifles can adversely affect the wear resistance of the finish.

• Make sure that the cladding is correctly aligned with the walls and the horizon. To do this, use the building level.
• When you put the first elements, you need to attach a plastic cross to the corner to form smooth and neat seams. Only then can other tiles be fixed. Having pressed the next part to the floor, on its lateral part you need to gently tap with a rubber mallet.
• During the laying of tiles, excess glue must be removed from it. If tiles need to be trimmed, a glass cutter should be used.

Seams

After finishing the flooring in the bathroom, you need to leave the room for a day - during this time the adhesives harden to the end. After the specified time, you need to very carefully and carefully remove the crosses from the lining, and also remove the excess mortar that remained at the joints between the tiles.

After that, you can proceed to grouting the seams remaining between the individual tiles on the floor.Otherwise, this work is called jointing. The grout mixture is laid with a rubber spatula. To do this, dial a small amount of grout, and then gently distribute along the entire length of the tile. In the recesses, the mixture should be rubbed a little harder. To carry out these works, you need to take your time, while filling in all the voids. Do not forget to immediately remove excess grout from the cladding. In addition to inter-tile seams, with such a mixture you need to finish the joints along the perimeter of the sewer passages.

Next, the treated seams must be wiped with a damp sponge to wash the rest of the solution. This step should be continued no earlier than 10-15 minutes after applying the grout. Such work must be carried out until the grout mixture has completely dried, since after that it will be very difficult to remove its excess. When cleaning such a floor covering, it is necessary to rinse the sponge as often as possible, as well as change the water. Otherwise, noticeable light stains, spots and stripes will remain on the cladding.

After a couple of weeks, the seams can be additionally coated with a special waterproof composition. It should be laid on top of the grout.

As you can see, putting ceramic tiles on the floor in the bathroom is not so difficult.

However, in any case, it is worth listening to a number of tips and recommendations of specialists.

• If you lay tiles on a rough wooden floor, then it is very important to check for strength. If any floorboards are rotten, they need to be replaced with new ones. To smooth such a base, usually use sheets of chipboard or plywood.
• If you are going to cut a tile, then before that it should be moistened with water. Use a special tile cutter, not a grinder. Safety goggles should be worn when cutting material, as there will be a lot of dust.
• Adhesive solutions are best prepared using a drill and a special nozzle. Thus, you will significantly save time.
• Do not put too much glue on the base. In this case, it may dry too quickly.
• Before you press on the tile laid on the base, you need to make sure that there is no accumulation of air under it. Otherwise, the lining will not last long.
• You can put glue on the base with any tool. It is better to level the composition with spatulas with cloves.

• Make sure that the width of the extreme parts is not less than ½ of their size.
• In addition, the extreme tiles must be laid so that between them and the walls there is a small distance (a neat seam) - you can not fix them close to the ceilings.
• Please note: if during the processing of the grout it stretches after a wet sponge, this means that the solution has not yet dried to the end.
• If necessary, it is permissible to put a warm floor system under the ceramic tiles.
• For finishing work, it is recommended to buy only high-quality tools and materials from well-known companies. With such components there will be no problems in the process of flooring.
• For the bathroom, it is recommended to buy tiles with a non-slip surface. With such material, the use of the room will be safer.
• When choosing a tile, pay attention to the integrity of the picture (if there is one on it). There should be no faded areas or unfinished images on the floor - such elements will spoil the design of the bathroom.
• Some people claim that ceramic tiles can be laid on the old tile floor in the bathroom. However, this installation method has a serious minus: the new lining may simply not cling to the old one. In this case, the tile will not hold on the floor as firmly as necessary.

• The bathroom should do waterproofing the floor. Many owners neglect this work, but experts advise installing waterproofing materials in all rooms where heating systems, water supply or sewage are present.
• Experts recommend the use of coating waterproofing when laying tiles in the bathroom. Instead, it is permissible to refer to impregnation options. Such compositions can be applied without problems and provide good protection against moisture and moisture.
• During the finishing work, constantly check the flooring with a building level - the lining should be even, without differences.
• When preparing the grout, pay attention to its consistency - it should resemble thick sour cream.
• If you decide to put in the bathroom an original floor like a mosaic or "chess", but you do not have the appropriate experience, then you should turn to the services of experienced craftsmen. Complex types of tile masonry require certain skills and knowledge that not every owner possesses.
• First, ceramic tiles should be placed in the place where the bath will be located.

In this article, we will describe in detail how to lay tiles on the floor. However, doing it yourself is much easier than the master tilers imagine. Of course, the specialist will cope with this work several times faster, but is there really a need for rush here?

In this article, we will consider all the nuances, from how the floor surface is prepared and screed is made, to directly laying the tiles and grouting the seams.

The quality of your masonry will be at a competitive level, if you follow simple rules. And most importantly, you will not only save, but also get a valuable skill for FREE! See photos and video materials for clarity. As you know, they first lay the tiles on the floor, and only then on the walls.

Leveling floors with tile glue is 3-4 times more expensive than using a self-leveling screed. And if the price criterion is not so important for you, then remember the following rule: laying tiles on a quality foundation, reduces the complexity of work by 90%!And if you are not a professional, then this is very important. Therefore, take time and prepare the floors.

To do this, you will need:

• Dry mix + primer (preferably from one manufacturer).
• Needle roller.
• Capacity for solution.
• Drill with a nozzle (as in the photo).

The screed is easily made on old wooden floors, so do not discard this option.

Completely clean the floor from old tiles, debris and dirt

The consumption of the mixture of the bulk floor and the maximum thickness, the manufacturer indicates the packaging. But on average, with a screed thickness of 1 cm, 15 kg / m 2 will be required. In a small room such as a bath, drops greater than 1 cm are rare. But still, take the mixture with a margin of 20%.

For example, if the bathroom area is 4 m 2, then alignment will require (15 x 4) x 1.2 \u003d 72 kg of dry mix (3 bags of 25 kg). But the price of the mixture is quite affordable, so here you can not be afraid of high costs.

The primer improves adhesion and reduces the consumption of screed material under the tile.

If drying time is critical for you, get a quick-drying mixture. It sets in its entire thickness throughout the day.

The pouring process captivates with its simplicity:

Now it remains to wait for drying. In the case of using a quick-drying mixture, you can start laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom in a day.

In a wooden house, the process is almost the same, before you lay the tiles on the floor, you need to make a screed.

Watch the video on how to screed the floor:

Materials and Tools

To work, you will need:

• Ceramic tile
• Adhesive composition
• Crosses
• Solution tank
• Drill with nozzle
• Toothed spatula (photo)
• Master OK
• Mallet
• Laser level
• Measuring corner
• Tile cutter (or grinder with a cutting disc + goggles)

A few tips for choosing:

• The glue must be purchased exactly the one recommended by the tile manufacturer. How to find out? - On the packaging of the tiles. If there are no such recommendations, buy reviews or advice from sales consultants.
• The thickness of the crosses directly depends on the quality of the tile. If the tile is cheap, then its dimensions may deviate from the declared by 1-2 mm. To hide these defects, thicker crosses are required. Otherwise, straight seams will not work.
• Laser Level (LU) is preferred over the rule. But only if the LU gives two rays, horizontal and vertical.
• If you will use a grinder, then purchase a cutting disc that has radial slots.
• Which tile to choose? - Ceramic is ideal for the floor, although sometimes in the bathrooms you can also find tiles on the floor.

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide how to lay the tile on the floor. And there are three types of layout methods:

1. Straight
2. Diagonal
3. Art

The first method is the simplest and least waste. With this installation, 4-6% of the scraps remain. The second option is more time consuming and costly. Even with an experienced craftsman, a minimum of 15-17% of the material is wasted, which accordingly affects the repair price. The artistic appearance of the laying requires remarkable experience and an increase in the number of tiles for the bathroom floor by 35-40%.

Which method to use is for you to decide, but it’s obvious that for the first time, the direct way of laying is the most optimal and simple.

Laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom

Laying tiles on the floor must begin from the most noticeable angle, along a long wall. Since I will still trim, the right start will allow them to “hide”. First, mark at both ends of the wall a distance equal to the width of the tile. Install and fix on one side the laser level so that the vertical beam marks the boundary of the first row of tiles.

If you planned to install a warm floor with your own hands, then you need to do this just at that moment.

Dissolve tile adhesive according to the instructions. In capacity pour water first, and only then fill in the required amount of dry mixture.

TIP: do not spread the glue too much, it sets quickly enough.

Use a trowel to draw the required amount of glue and apply it on the floor surface as shown in the video. Then, using a notched trowel, smooth and wavy movements to smooth it. The use of a notched trowel allows you to lay the floor evenly and avoid the formation of voids under the tile.

The thickness of the adhesive should not exceed the thickness of the tile. Laying the tiles this way will be the easiest.

Then glue the first tile. Make sure that its edge is on the line of the laser beam. To check the horizontal laying, attach a measuring corner to each corner of the tile. The horizontal laser beam should indicate the same height on the scale. The rule will not be able to give an objective assessment if the tile has even a weakly expressed wavy (bumpy) surface. This can only be done by spark: laser level + corner.

Like the first, stick the second tile. But before checking for horizontalness, insert crosses at the rate of 2 pieces per side (see photo).

IMPORTANT: CHECK EACH INSTALLED TILE FOR HORIZONTALITY!

The last tile of each row needs to be customized. Measure the size with a ruler, subtract the thickness of the crosses from the obtained value and draw a cut line on the tile. Draw a line with a fine marker or felt-tip pen. When working with a grinder, be sure to wear safety glasses. Lay the tile for the cut on a piece of plywood or chipboard. The prepared tile must be laid so that the trimmed edge adjoins the wall.

After laying out the first row, set the laser level and proceed to the next. By changing the position of the laser level, with a high probability you will change the height of the projection of the horizontal beam. It should not confuse you. The main thing is that the distance from each corner, each tile to the laser beam is the same. The sequence of actions is the same as with the first row, but only crosses will need to be inserted already from three sides.

The most time-consuming will be the last row, because before you put it, it is almost always necessary to trim each tile. Measure and cut each tile after laying the previous one.

After finishing the last row, give an exposure to set the adhesive composition. How long does tile adhesive dry? - Usually after a day you can start grouting.

Finishing work

For grouting you will need:

• Two-component cement grout
• Capacity
• Rubber spatula
• Clean cloth (preferably microfiber)

Please note that in the bathroom, it is best to use just such a mixture. In addition to cement, its composition includes latex-based plasticizer, which gives it the following properties:

1. She is not afraid of water.
2. Resistance to household chemicals.
3. Has an antifungal effect
4. Temperature difference indifference

In matters of choosing the color of the grout, you have to decide on the basis of your own preferences. But keep in mind that the pronounced contrast between the grout and tile will clearly highlight possible defects.

Before starting work on all crosses must be removed. Dilute the grout, following the step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer. In some cases, the mixture should settle for 5-7 minutes, then you can begin to work.

After collecting a little grout on a rubber spatula, swipe it along the seam around one tile. The seam should be completely flush. Then, with a clean cloth, it is necessary to remove the stains from the tile and the excess mixture from the seam itself. This operation must be carried out very carefully, because after drying such a procedure will require an order of magnitude more forces and means.

Having finished with one tile, proceed to the next. The work itself is very simple, but do not try to immediately close the seam to the entire length of the room. This is fraught with a decline in quality.

Having finished grouting all the seams, give time for a set of strength. Usually, complete drying takes place within a day, but you can use the bath for its intended purpose after 3-4 hours.

Optionally, at the end of all work, you can install skirting boards. In bathrooms, this is not always done, but if you want, you should pay attention that you need to use special drills for tiles.

All work, along with technological breaks, takes two days. The most time-consuming is laying the tiles on the floor. After numerous observations, it can be said that an ordinary person who first began to independently lay ceramic tiles in the bathroom does this at a speed of 1 m 2 in an hour and a half. Long? Not! Exciting and free!



Tile is the most common material for decorating bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchen areas. A variety of textures, colors, patterns, sizes of material allows you to create unique finishes. Manufacturers offer ready-made sets for walls and floors of bathrooms and bathrooms, decorative panels of various sizes.

Having mastered the technique of laying tiles, each owner of an apartment or house has the opportunity to save a significant amount on repairs.

What you need to know for a beginner tiler

1. Putting in a hurry. Work loves accuracy and precision in everything.
2. The quality of laying depends on how smooth the surface is.
3. You should buy the material of one series, then it will be the same color. Stock by quantity: 10% with regular and 15% with diagonal laying.
4. Do not lay on the painted surface - the tile will fall off with the paint
5. It should be installed after all communications have been completed.
6. There is an arrow on the back of each tile. It must be laid equally in the location of this arrow.
7. If you have to finish the floor and walls, start with the walls and finish with the floor
8. You need to work with gloves: cement mortars corrode the skin.

Laying on vertical walls

Tools

• notched trowel (for tiles 30x30 cm the size of the teeth is 10 mm, for 10x10 cm the size of the teeth is 4-5 mm), the width of the spatula is not less than the width of the tile,
• drill or perforator with mixer nozzle,
• wooden block or rubber mallet,
• metal corner 90 about, ruler,
• tile cutter
• Angle grinder (grinder),
• levels (one short, the other 1–1.5 m long),
• roulette,
• marker,
• containers for solution preparation
• rubber spatula,
• rubber gloves,
• respirator,
• file for metal.

Materials

• tile
• tile adhesive
• deep penetration soil
• mixture for grouting,
• metal guiding profiles No. 27,
• water, sponges and rags,
• crosses for styling or wedges,
• outer and inner corners for the thickness and color of the material.

Preparatory work

• Old coatings and paint are previously removed from the walls (using a hammer and chisel, or a hammer drill with a spatula).
• The walls are cleaned of dust, primed using deep penetration soil.
• Smooth with plaster or putty. With very significant deviations of the walls from the vertical, sheets of moisture-resistant drywall are used for leveling, which are fixed to tile glue and self-tapping screws, and then putty.
• In the bathroom, the walls should be treated with cement-based waterproofing 2 times and primed again.

Markup

Laying tiles on the vertical walls of the bathroom usually starts from the second row from the bottom, and ends first after the floor is done.

• Measure the height and length of the walls (the area that is finished) and divide it by the height and width of the tile (respectively), taking into account the width of the seam. For example, a tile 30x30 cm, the width of the seam 3 mm, the height of the wall in mm should be divided by 303 mm. Get the number of tiles in height. Decor elements that differ in size should also be considered. If the resulting number is different from the whole, determine the location of the row of cut tiles. Most often it is located below.

• Mark the beginning of the second row from the bottom and draw a straight line along the perimeter of the walls, checking its horizontal level.
• On this line, they install (on dowels and self-tapping screws) guiding metal profiles, on which the row will rest, once again check the horizontals. Profiles should converge in corners at the same level. This work must be done very carefully, the quality of all work will depend on it.
• Horizontal markings need to be done so that in the most visible corners there are whole tiles, and all the trimmings are in inconspicuous places.
• Draw a marker vertical lines at the place of laying the first vertical row. Check the vertical level.
• It is recommended that novice tilers draw the entire wall into squares, taking into account the width of the seam. This will take some time, but will greatly simplify the work.

Stacking

Glue preparation

According to the instructions, glue is prepared using 2-3 liters of water. The dry mixture is poured into water and mixed. Then leave for 10 minutes, mix again and use.

Methods for applying glue

There are several options for applying glue:

• point (with small sizes) the glue is applied in the center of the tile and in the corners with an ordinary spatula, press it against the wall, moving it slightly from side to side.
• on the wall. Glue is applied only on the wall with a notched trowel (used for small and medium sized materials),
• on the wall and tile. The glue is applied evenly with a notched trowel, the method is suitable for large tile sizes (40x30 cm or more).

Experienced stackers use the first method and with large sizes of finishing material. It allows you to save glue and, if necessary, easily and without damage to separate the tile from the wall.

Laying with glue on the wall

• With a notched trowel, they add a portion of glue and apply it to a wall area equal to 2-3 tiles in one of the corners (it is better to start from the front corners and whole tiles)
• Take the tile and install it, pressing and moving a little from side to side on a marked place, resting on a fixed profile and aligning it with a marked vertical line.
• They put crosses in the corners (a part will have to be cut off at the lower cross) and in the same way put the second and third tiles. Check the vertical and horizontal of each short level, as well as the surface by applying a level. If any part of it stands out, tap on it with a rubber mallet or level it with a wooden plank, tapping on it. So do the first row.
• For the design of internal and external corners, plastic corners are used. They are put on one of the tiles and fixed with it. Tiles of the following rows are inserted into the corners. Corners hide defects in the corners, ensure the integrity of the finish in case of accidental impacts on corners.
• The second and subsequent rows to the top of the wall are laid in the same way, making sure that the corners of the 4 tiles are in the same plane and the crosses do not warp.
• Sometimes it happens that the sizes of the tiles are slightly different (especially in low-grade samples), which leads to the displacement of vertical or horizontal rows. This problem can be solved by using wedges instead of crosses, slightly reducing or increasing the size of the inter-tile seam. When grouting joints, such a defect will be little noticeable.
• After laying all the upper rows, the profile is removed and the last row is laid so that it is firmly adjacent to the floor (minimum tile seam).

A tile apron in the kitchen is made in a similar way, starting from the bottom row.

How to cut

You can use the old-fashioned method: a glass cutter plus a stool, but it costs nothing to buy a tile cutter, its price is comparable to the finishing work of 1 m 2   walls.

Tile cutting is easy. Measure the desired size and cut, starting from the edge. Some tile cutters have nozzles for cutting round holes. They are cut from the back of the tiles.

Round holes are cut through with a grinder with appropriate nozzles, a hacksaw for metal or a jigsaw with a special diamond-coated string, a drill with a ballerina nozzle.

Round, semicircular and square holes can be made with a puncher at low speeds with a diamond drill: stick masking tape on the surface, drill a lot of holes along the marked lines, and then simply break off with wire cutters. The edges are leveled with a metal file.

Grouting

Tile joints can be overwritten no earlier than a day after installation, but it is better to withstand 3-4 days. Before grouting the wall and joints must be cleaned of glue and dust. To do this, it is recommended to use a small spatula and vacuum cleaner.

• Moisten the seams using clean water and a small brush.
• Prepare the mix according to the instructions.
• Press the mixture into the seams with a rubber spatula. It is convenient to do this by holding the trowel at an angle of 45 about  and pushing him.
• Remove excess grout with a spatula. Remains of grouting from the surface are periodically removed with a dry rag.
• The grout needs to be moistened periodically (2-3 times a day) using a spray bottle or a wet rag.
• At the end of the work or after a day, the grout is finally washed with clean water and a clean rag.

Floor laying

Floor tiles are laid in the same way.

• The markup is made from the center of the room, which is determined by drawing diagonals and connecting the midpoints of opposite sides. The lines should intersect at an angle of 90 about. If not, they are corrected.
• Equal distances to the wall are measured from intersection lines. The most visible part of the floor should start with whole tiles. This is determined by laying dry tile on the floor.
• If the tiles are laid diagonally, the first row should start along one of the diagonals connecting the opposite corners.

We hope that this material will help visitors to our site successfully master this fascinating affair - creating a unique kitchen and bathroom interior with your own hands.

How to put a tile in the bathroom with your own hands - video

Today we will look at how to lay tiles on the floor in the bathroom. To lay tiles for the floor correctly, you do not need to have great knowledge. Laying ceramics on the floor is easier than on the wall, since a person walks on this surface and, looking at it from a height, may not notice the unevenness of the floor.

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When performing installation work, plumbing fixtures, which are installed for years, have a significant impact. They cannot be moved or repositioned. These include the bathroom bowl, toilet, sink and other plumbing and pipes. They cause inconvenience and possible types of marriage at work. How to put tiles on the floor yourself? We will try to consider the answer to this question today.

Self laying tiles on the floor

Some owners of their apartments and houses, for cleanliness and beauty, try to lay tiles in the bathroom with their own hands, however, having only one desire for this is not enough. To begin with, the owner should study the entire process of laying floor ceramics or look at an example of how such work is performed correctly. And only after that you can start laying the tiles yourself, and preferably with an assistant.

Carrying out repairs in the bathroom, you should be careful about plumbing and new building materials, as the room is small, uncomfortable and also crowded. Let us consider in more detail the process in which floor tiles are mounted. It is best to start by mounting the floor in place under the bath, and only after that should the bath be installed. After mounting the bathroom bowl, the floor tiles are laid.

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So, how to lay the tile on the floor and what are the features that affect the installation? First you need to make all possible plumbing items. To start repair work correctly, you need to examine your old floor and identify deficiencies that need to be addressed. If the floor is old tiles, then it must be beaten by hand with a hammer. The old screed is knocked down to a flat surface.

Dismantling old tiles

Under the tiles in the bathroom you need to prepare a flat surface, and for this, level it with a cement screed. At the same time, it is worthwhile to waterproof the surface, you can not save on it. Then pour concrete and carefully level the floor. Only by taking such measures can you start laying tiles. To correctly lay the tile on the floor in the bathroom, you need to take into account all the subtleties of working with this building material.

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For repair, you will definitely need:

• rubber spatula;
• level;
• crosses for marking the width of the seams;
• insulation;
• primer;
• glue;
• tile;
• sand;
• cement.

When choosing a tile, you should not save on the price and quality of materials. It comes in different sizes and original designs. Thanks to the variety of options, today you can choose a floor covering for every taste and budget.

After the cement screed has dried, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris and dust. Laying tiles on the floor initially involves priming the floor, but the peculiarity is that the primer is not diluted before use, but is applied to the surface in its original form. For these types of work use a liquid solution of primer. It is poured into a bucket or basin and is applied to the floors with a thick brush.

Primer surface before laying tiles

When applying soil to the surface, you should look at the "reaction" - foam should form on the floor. This indicates that the concrete screed has been well saturated with the mortar and that it takes time to dry. The soil can dry for 1-3 hours, but professionals prefer to leave it overnight to ensure better quality. Starting work in the morning, you can once again impregnate the floors with liquid soil for optimal installation quality.

The next important point is the priming of the surface with glue. Some masters overlook it and consider it optional, since the tile is still put on glue. But a primer with glue is necessary for better work.

Glue on the floor

To lay the tiles on the floor in the bathroom, indicate the approximate rows for the tiles. Laying floor ceramics occurs precisely in rows along the floor. Some experts consider two rows next to a tile laid with each other. For the first row of tiles you need to constantly use the level. A row can be started both horizontally and vertically. Everyone has their own technology. Your first step is to apply glue to the surface using a special notched trowel. They smear glue on the surface, after which they are leveled with the help of teeth. These actions must be performed in the direction of one row.

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How to glue the tiles on the floor so that the rows are smooth and of high quality? First, consider the ceramic product itself from the back. An arrow should be shown on its surface, showing the direction in which the material should be laid. If we are going to lay the tiles with vertical tracks, then the arrows should point upward in their direction. If you place the tile correctly, you will end up with even seams with minimal distances from each other.

How to stick a tile? Take the product and use a comb to apply a thin layer of glue on it with movements from the bottom up. This rule is used to fill in the possible gaps in the floor and tile and to fill the free space between the tile and the screed.

Next, put the tiles on the surface yourself and align it with our row. To lay the product evenly, some use a level. For this alignment, it is best to lay several tiles at once. After you managed to lay out the ceramic product of the first row, there will be no problems with the subsequent rows.

Laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom

The glued tile must be tapped and pressed for density of laying and checked according to the level so that the surface is smooth.

The nuances when laying tiles can be improper uniformity of seams and the absence of teeth. When laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, use special crosses that have the shape of a cone. Before laying the next row, it is necessary to insert such crosses at the joints of the tile in the floor surface. They align the seam width within the required size. After laying the ceramics, the crosses are immersed in concrete. However, if you make the floor in the bathroom, then the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is usually small, so that a slight deviation from the norm will be imperceptible.

If you lay the flooring over a large area, then all the bumps in the joints will be striking. Therefore, for such work it is better to use crosses. The unpleasant moment when repairing the bathroom is that the ceramics in the installation of the legs of the bathtub and toilet bowl will have to be cut using a tile cutter or grinder to get the right bend. It takes experience and patience.

The final stage of repair is grouting. Seams are the distance between the tiles. Grouting the floor is performed after the glue has completely dried (it takes up to three days). In a hardware store get a dry grout. This mixture is diluted with water to a paste. Put it on a rubber spatula, and then lubricate the seams with it. When the paste dries, you can straighten the seams with your finger and remove the rest of the paste with a dry cloth.

Tile laying is not considered a complex type of work. You can learn this. The main thing is to have the desire and the necessary building material and tools. And be sure to use our tips.

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The operation of the bathroom has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account when arranging this room with your own hands. In the bathroom, increased humidity, surfaces come in contact with water and steam, there is a risk of flooding during leakage. In addition, increased hygiene requirements are imposed on the bathroom.

Based on this, the arrangement and decoration of this room should be technologically competent. The surface that is used most intensively in the bathroom is the floor. Consider one of the technologies that allow you to do your own bathroom floor with all your requirements.

We will divide the set of necessary works into separate types:

1. Dismantling the old coating.
2. Waterproofing the floor.
3. Heat and sound insulation of the floor.
4. Reinforcement with leveling screed.
5. Laying floor tiles with grouting.

To perform these works, you will need the following materials:

• silicone;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• technical polyethylene;
• paint net;
• pVA glue;
• latex "DVHB-70";
• fittings;
• cement;
• sand;
• tile;
• tile glue;
• marking crosses for seams;
• grout for joints.

Dismantling the old coating

Consider the most common situation when repairs in the bathroom are made in full. In such a situation, tiles are first laid on the floor, and then on the walls, since it is such a conjugation of surfaces that provides additional waterproofing of the floor of the bathroom. But before facing the walls, you need to install the bath in place, so first you need to put the tile on the site of the floor for the bath, then install the bath and make the walls, except for the bottom row, protecting the bath with tarpaulin. After finishing the walls, you need to finish laying the tiles on the floor and put the bottom row of tiles on the walls.

Thus, first of all, it is necessary to dismantle the old floor together with the adhesive mortar, cement screed and old waterproofing under it, to the surface of the floor slab. Dismantling the old floor with your own hands, in order to save time and effort, you need to do a hammer drill. Important! When working with a hammer drill, you need to use safety glasses, gloves and shoes, as sharp fragments of the tile are dangerous.

After finishing work, you need to analyze the situation with a decrease in the floor level after dismantling, making measurements. If the level has decreased significantly, it means that it is necessary to backfill with small expanded clay with its subsequent tamping and fixing screed device. If the decrease in the level is insignificant, then it is necessary to finish the surface from the bulges with a chisel and hammer, and then grout with a cement-sand mortar.

Floor waterproofing

To prevent moisture from entering adjacent rooms and to the lower floor, waterproofing should be done on the bathroom floor. The most economical solution will be to lay two layers of dense technical cellophane, commercially available in rolls and meters. Sheets of cellophane need to be laid with an overlap of 5 cm on top of each other and 10 cm on the walls. The inner surfaces of the inlets must be coated with silicone with a mounting syringe from the tube.

For waterproofing the floor, roll bitumen can also be used, but the surface under its flooring needs to be prepared more carefully. The floor after leveling with grout should be primed. Bitulin is laid on a dry surface with one layer end-to-end between each other, but with a lap on the walls of 10-15 cm, using a blowtorch, with which its adhesive inner surface is heated before gluing. Bitulin joints must be covered with heated bitumen on top.

Insulation and sound insulation of the floor

A layer of extruded polystyrene foam 3 cm thick should be placed on top of the layers of technical polyethylene. Extruded polystyrene foam differs from the usual homogeneous (without forming balls), more dense structure, has more strength, and therefore it can be laid on horizontal surfaces under stress.

The installation of expanded polystyrene will provide heat and sound insulation of the bathroom floor and will make the use of this room more comfortable. Sheets of expanded polystyrene need to be laid end-to-end, applying a layer of silicone at the joints.

Silicone must be allowed to dry for a day. Then, it is necessary to apply a layer of PVA glue on the polystyrene foam and overlap the masking grid, smoothing it with a spatula so that there are no bubbles. The mesh overlay on itself and on the wall should be 5 cm. PVA glue should also dry for 24 hours, after which a solution of DVHB-70 latex in a ratio of 1: 3, which also needs to be allowed to dry, is applied over the pasted mesh.

Reinforcement and leveling screed

After the latex has dried, you need to start the preparation of the screed, which will protect the polystyrene foam and indicate the profile of the final floor covering. To ensure the strength of the screed, it is necessary to reinforce the equipped surface with a reinforcing mesh.

The correct solution would be reinforcing with a mesh of fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm, which is knitted with plastic clamps, followed by trimming the excess length of their ends or ordinary knitting wire. The mesh size should be taken 8-10 cm. Lay the mesh on the floor on small flat pebbles, which, when the screed is installed, will provide a concrete layer of 5-10 mm under the mesh.

The screed is made of cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3, prepared with your own hands. For the preparation of mortar for screed it is better to use coarse sand. The solution is placed on the reinforcing mesh and distributed evenly with a 5 cm thick layer. It is important that there are no voids not filled with the solution under the mesh, therefore, during the installation, you need to slightly vibrate the solution with a trowel.

When installing the screed, you need to give the surface the necessary slope, which will further simplify the process of laying the tiles. The slope of the surface of the screed should be 1% in the direction opposite to the bathroom door. The door frame in the doorway of the bathroom should have a threshold height of 3-5 cm, which in case of emergency leakage and the absence of a ladder will delay the spread of water to neighboring rooms for some time.

Starting from the second day, the screed should be moistened with water, avoiding puddles on the surface. After each wetting, the screed is covered with cellophane to slow the evaporation of water. After the fifth day, the wetting is stopped and the screed is dried. After drying, the screed takes on a light gray color. Then the screed is primed with a solution of the DVHB-70 latex in a ratio of 1: 5. A day after the primer, the screed is ready to lay the tiles.

Tiling and grouting

When the floor profile is pre-marked with a screed, the process of laying tiles with your own hands is facilitated. However, it is necessary to choose the right adhesive for the tile and grout for the seams. Glue and grout for tiles of various types are offered by manufacturers Cerezit, Yunis, Litokol. To give the surface additional waterproofing qualities, the tile must be put on moisture-proof glue.

Examples of moisture-resistant adhesives can be adhesives Yunis-plus, Yunis-pool, Litokol X-11, Cerezit SM-119. Methods for preparing these solutions in an accessible form are described on the packages. Apply a layer of glue with a thickness not exceeding the thickness of the tile, while using a flat spatula, not a comb-spatula, so that there are no voids under the tile.

The final stage of laying tiles - grouting and sealing joints

Laying the tiles begins with the future location of the bath. In order to improve the waterproofing properties of the floor, the width of the joints between the tiles should not exceed 2 mm, which is easy to observe when using plastic crosses-clamps of the appropriate size. When the platform for the bath is lined, the solution under the tile is given a day to harden, and then the tile joints are rubbed with their own hands.

For grouting tiles on the bathroom floor, polymer-cement grout mixtures are optimal, which give the composition moisture resistance and strength. Such grouts are less likely to form defects, for example, cracks. Manufacturers Unis, Ceresit and Litokol, in addition to tile adhesives, produce high-quality grout mixes.

After grouting the tiles, the floor area under the bath should stand without load for a week, after which you need to install the bath and revetment the walls, except for the last lower row. Then, tile laying on the bathroom floor is continued. The extreme rows of tiles on the floor must be laid against the wall so that the lower row of wall cladding rests on the floor tile when laying, but there is a gap of 5 mm between the floor tile and the wall, which will compensate for temperature deformations.

The last operation will be laying the bottom row of tiles on the walls and grouting its seams.